One of the true year-round garments, Fatigue Pants can be a cornerstone in the modern wardrobe — especially if you’re into clothing with a vintage or military-centric aesthetic. They’re workhorse pants that can be dressed up or down, and I’ll go on record to say that in my opinion, they’re the most essential non-denim pants you can invest in.
After their meteoric rise to popular fashion in the late 2010s, fatigue pants are now a mainstay in modern menswear, with many makers trying their hand at this military classic.
While many loose, olive-green military pants have been referred to as fatigues, we will be focusing on the OG-107 silhouette made famous in the Vietnam War. This is the archetypal ‘fatigue’ pant, and while it was traditionally issued in sateen, modern takes on this pant by contemporary brands mean you can pick up this legendary silhouette in a wide range of materials and colorways. Olive green will always be the champ, though.
This guide will be your companion for investing in your next pair of quality fatigue pants, be that an OG green pair or something a bit more modern. We’ve separated this shortlist into fits and colors, and put a budget-friendly section at the end to cover the full spectrum of quality fatigue pants out there in a clear and concise way.
A Brief History of the Fatigue Pant
“U.S. Draftee 1955”. By Michael Rougier. Image via The Life Photo Archive
The U.S. Army replaced its M1943 uniform with the OG-107 Uniform in 1952. Made up of trousers and a jacket, the OG-107 Utility uniform was became one of the longest-issued uniforms in the U.S. military, named after the carded color of the 8.5 oz. cotton sateen it was made from — Olive Green 107.
Just like the M-65 , humongous manufacturing contracts meant that hundreds of thousands of OG-107 uniforms entered the civilian market. They became symbolic as they appeared en masse as Vietnam Veterans Against the War (VVAW) protested the war in their issued fatigues. As is the case with many surplus military items, early generations of hikers, rock climbers, and hippies donned OG-107 trousers. Surplus items like the OG-107 pant were valued for their durability and cheap prices, either for hardwearing outdoor people or those looking to remove themselves from a consumerist-centered society.
A Word on the term ‘Baker Pant’
You may often find Fatigue Pants being referred to as ‘Baker Pants’. Whilst there is no clarity on exactly where this term came from, there is a theory that Bakers were known to wear Fatigues and make use of their large patch pockets. We’ve researched this and can’t find an answer, but just know that the moniker ‘Baker Pant’ is often given to Fatigue pants with the OG-107 silhouette.
Fatigue Pant Shortlist 2023
Olive – Straight & Wide Leg
Imogene+Willie
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Whilst not the first brand that comes to mind when I think of military reproductions, Imogene + Willie have made a pretty compelling pair of Fatigue Trousers that should be near the top of your list if you want something that’s already pre-loaded with patina.
These Fatigue Trousers in Olive Green are based on an old pair of worn OG-107s. Imogene + Willie procured a slubby sateen fabric from Japan, yarn-dyed for an authentic texture and feel, and by the looks of the roping on the seams, they also washed the finished pant to soften it up and improve the drape of the overall slouchy fit. Made in the USA, these Fatigues are built with the iconic OG-107 pattern including the large patch pockets, and finished with period-correct buttons and a Caballo out seam.
Available from Stag Provisions for $195
orSlow
Perhaps the overlord of all OG-107-inspired pants, orSlow’s Regular Fit US Army Fatigue pants are universally appreciated in heritage menswear. And for good reason – they’re made in Japan from a heavyweight sateen that’s full of slub and texture like no other.
This season, orSlow have put out a “used wash” pair of their Fatigue Pants, mirroring the brands’s revered pre-washed denim offerings. Having personally worn a pair from their raw sateen state for a few years and outgrowing them, I invested in a pair of these myself and have to say, the wash is spot on. They look just like my old worn pair, meaning I don’t miss them half as much anymore!
Each pair of orSlow fatigue pants is constructed in Japan from Japanese sateen and finished with tonal buttons, a chain stitched waistband, and a branded orSlow tag inside.
Available at Calculus for $270.
Beams Plus
Leave it to Beams Plus to come in with the wide-tapered, slightly cropped fatigue pant. The Japanese label is known for its 2-pleat pants which make an appearance in pretty much every Beams Plus Collection ever, but for this pair of 1-pleat Baker Pants, they’ve cleverly worked the singular pleat into the archetypal L-shaped patch pockets of classic fatigue pant silhouettes. Clever, huh?
Made in Japan, these 1-Pleat Baker Pants are constructed from 100% cotton back sateen – a more compact and dense version of sateen. They feature the heaviest taper in this guide, but they’re by no means slim — they’re just roomy up top and tapered to a smaller hem opening. An instant Beams classic.
Available from Lost & Found for $299.
Engineered Garments
Engineered Garments have been making fatigues since before they were in fashion. Using their workwear-inspired label, Workaday, EG has put out a range of robust American-made fatigues, with the Olive Cotton Reverse Sateen being the most classic.
Clearly inspired by old military contracts, the Engineered Garments Workaday fatigue pant is a no-frills fatigue in the OG material. No washes, no fancy dyes, just good ol’ olive sateen, baby. The fit is a loose straight with a high rise, too — just like the originals. Just know that these things fit big, so check the measures at Lost & Found.
Available at Lost & Found for $268.
Studio D’Artisan
While these Studio D’Artisan 1845 AG Baker Pants in Army Green pants came out in 2022, Brooklyn Clothing still has a decent range of sizes in them, making them worth a look this year, too.
We know and love Studio D’Artisan for its denim goods, but they make some pretty tantalizing non-denim apparel, too — these fatigue pants included. Made in the brand’s homeland of Okayama, Japan, the 1845 AG Baker Pant is constructed from a 100% cotton lightweight sateen and features all the hallmarks of a classic fatigue – straight leg fit, L-shaped patch pockets, olive green color, and tonal hardware. They’ve also been one-washed, which hs softened the fabric, added some character, and taken care of the shrinkage, too.
Available from Brooklyn Clothing for $329CAD (~$245USD).
Yankshire
If you want to get as close to a pair of original deadstock OG-107s as possible, look no further than Yankshire‘s Fatigue Pants 1960s Vintage Sateen Olive Green.
Yankshire is one of Kinji Teramoto’s labels under the 35 Summers umbrella, centered on reproducing army and workwear pieces. In this case, Teramoto has reproduced a pair of OG-107 pants using actual deadstock sateen from the 1960s — right down to the fit, button, belt-loop width, and military contract-style label inside the waistband. Investing in these is the closest thing you’ll find to buying a deadstock pair of OG-107s, and they give you a chance to see how the original fabric would have worn and washed down to become soft, textured, and drapey.
Made in Japan, the Yankshire Fatigue Pants feature a regular straight fit with a high rise. The deadstock sateen is unwashed, so there will be some shrinkage, especially in the inseam length, so consider that if you’re into these bad boys.
Available from Clutch Cafe for $325
Olive – Slim
orSlow
Leading the charge for Slim fitting Olive Fatigue pants is orSlow again, with the Slim rendition of its US Army Fatigue Pants. These feature all the hallmarks of the aforementioned Regular Fit orSlow Fatigues, but they’re in a slimmer fit and made from an unwashed sateen.
Each pair of orSlow fatigue pants is constructed in Japan from Japanese sateen, and finished with tonal buttons, a chain stitched waistband, and a branded orSlow tag inside.
Available from Vestis for $258.
Tellason
We’re glad that Tellason is making an appearance in this guide with a pair of slim-fitting fatigue pants. Made in Italy from an 8.5 oz. Italian olive drab sateen, these are one of Tellason’s best-selling garments and it’s easy to see why. The sateen is highly textured from the get-go and a fit this tapered is to find in the world of fatigues.
All the OG-107 hallmarks are here to make your fatigue dreams come true.
Available from Tellason for $198.
Shockoe Atelier
Virginia-based Shockoe Atelier has applied a 7.5 oz. olive ripstop fabric to its slim-fitting Fatigue Trouser silhouette. Made in America, they pay homage to the Fatigue Pants of yore with the patch pockets and fabric choice, but they enter their own modern lane with a slim fit(with a broader thigh and seat area), branded waist patch, and additional rivet reinforcements.
Available from Shockoe Atelier for $185.
Non-Olive Fatigues – Straight & Wide Leg
Frizmworks
Korean imprint, Frizmworks, expertly blends inspirations from ivy, workwear, and military garb. Emerging from that latter inspiration is their Jungle Cloth Fatigue Pant in Khaki.
Despite looking like a simple khaki a first glance, closer inspection will reveal the tightly woven Jungle Cloth use on these fancy Frizms. Infamously durable and more water-resistant than sateen, Frizmworks took this Jungle Cloth a step further by putting it through a biostone washing process for drape, texture, and a vintage look.
Available at Wallace Mercantile for $150
Companion Denim
There’s a plethora of olive fatigues on the market, so when a quality brand goes out of its way to color outside of the lines a bit, we’ll always take a look. Especially when indigo dye is in the mix.
Enter Companion Denim and its new Indigo Fatigue Pants. Made in Spain from 13 oz. French indgo-dyed selvedge herringbone twill, not only do these offer a unique take on the iconic military fatigue pant style — they carry a truckload of fading potential, too. The wide-tapered fit is loose enough to ensure comfort in warmer weather, but not so sloppy that you couldn’t wear them to the office. They’re a daily driver through and through.
Did Companion stop at a stellar fabric and killer fit? Of course not. They constructed these with chainstitching to the inseam, back rise, and hems, and killer shell stitching on the fly. Each pair comes with natirual herringbone twill cotton waist band lining, waist adjusters, chambray pocket bags, and corozo nut buttons.
Available for $262 from Companion Denim.
Engineered Garments
Engineered Garments stepped off the sateen train for this edition of its Fatigue Pants, rendering them from a 6.5 oz. Flat twill that comes in the above Natural and below Pink colorways. Coming in a trim straight-leg fit, they’re made in the USA like the rest of Engineered Garments’ roster of workwear-centric garb.
Whilst they follow the blueprint of the OG-107, they’re slightly slimmer in the leg than the originals, and the flat twill provides a smarter aesthetic closer to a chino than a traditional fatigue. If you like the schematic of the OG-107 but aren’t crazy about olive green or darker colors, this duo from EG could be up your street.
Both pairs of Engineered Garments Fatigue Pants in Flat Twill are available from Lost & Found for $165.
Studio D’Artisan
Studio D’Artisan‘s aforementioned 1845 pants also come in a navy colorway, made in Japan from the same lightweight-yet-slubby sateen.
Available from Brooklyn Clothing for $320CAD (~$245USD).
orSlow
orSlow US Army Fatigue Pants in Washed Black Stone, available from Brooklyn Tailors for $255.
orSlow, again? Yeah, they kinda have this whole Fatigue thing wrapped. Their U.S. Army Fit Fatigue Pants also come in the brand’s ‘Used Black’ sateen and Sumi Ink-Dyed Linen — both of which are washed for softness and character.
orSlow US Army Fatigue Pants in Sumi-Dyed Linen, available from Calculus for $315.
Non-Olive Fatigues – Slim
Tellason
If you’re used to wearing indigo bottoms like raw denim jeans, you’ve probably been pining for more Navy whilst reading this article. If that is you, then this pair of Tellason Fatigues might be your thing.
Coming in Tellason’s Original Tapered Leg fit, these Fatigues come in a range of non-green colors, including this gorgeous navy sateen. Each pair is made in Italy from Italian sateen that’s slubby and hardwearing, and comes finished with tonal hardware and a branded woven patch inside the waistband.
Available from Tellason for $198.
Under $150
Burgus Plus
Available at Hinoya for $135 (also available as shorts for $115 at Hinoya)
Stan Ray
We usually have Stan Ray pants stocked up at the Heddels Shop, but they sell like hotcakes. Luckily for you, Stan Ray’s webstore is stocked up with more fatigues than you can shake a stick at — all made in the USA and under $100. They come in a range of fits from loose and wide to slim and tapered.
Available for $96 from Stan Ray.
Non-Stock Mfg. Co.
The Jury may still be out on Bronson, Non-Stock Mfg. Co. and their Chinese manufacturing, but if brands like Bob Dong or Red Cloud are anything to go by, Chinese-made workwear is nothing to be sniffed at. I guess something that raises eyebrows is the price point. I mean, these Vietnam War OG-107 Utility Fatigue Pants are under $75. That’s affordable and then some.
If you’re a fatigue skeptic, trying these Non-Stock Mfg. Co. Fatigues out for under $100 is probably a good move. They’re made in China from an 11 oz. 100% cotton sateen and come with urea buttons, and come in a straight-to-wide leg fit inspired by OG-107 pants from the 1950s and 60s.
Available from Bronson Shop for $72
Etsy, eBay, and Flea Markets
You can find a range of used (occasionally deadstock) fatigue pants on secondhand outlets like Etsy and eBay, and at flea markets like the Rose Bowl.
