Moments In time is a new series exclusive to our Heddels+ community. In this series, we will take a closer look at specific pieces and silhouettes from the past which have had a lasting impact on our niche today. From unsung-but-iconic vintage pieces like the Cossack Jacket and Karakoram Parka to modern heritage staples like the Guayabera shirt and Monkey Boot, we’ll be dissecting these classics to find out how they made their mark and where we can find both vintage and contemporary articles today.
In our collective lexicon of leather jackets, the biker styles probably ring the most bells. Popularized in the 1940s-1960s, they were a mainstay amongst motorcyclists, rock ‘n rollers, and of course, Hollywood’s biggest stars both on-screen and off. But why were they such a hit? Well for starters, it has a ubiquitous aura that seamlessly evokes a whole spectrum of feelings. And obviously, they look straight-up awesome.
But the plot’s about to thicken like a pair of 32 oz. denim, because it’s the motorcycle jacket’s staying power that has all but buried its predecessor, the Cossack Jacket. Attitude-laden styles like the Perfecto and Cafe Racer have overshadowed the laid-back Cossack Jacket to the point of fossilization, leaving it a criminally underrated silhouette that is only faithfully reproduced by a handful of makers.
New to the scene in the 1920s before peaking in popularity in the 1930s, the Cossack jacket gets its name from the “cossack” collar, a military-style stand collar reminiscent of that of a suit – it lays flat until flipped. However, as time went on, this phrase became less of a title for a specific jacket and more of an identifier for a type of jacket.
Today, we’re shining a deserved spotlight on the Cossack Jacket, dissecting its details, history, and iconic makers – as well as some great options to invest in the style today.
Dissecting The Cossack Jacket
Image via Bill Kelso
First, let’s talk about the cut. Cossacks are boxy, hip/waist-length jackets, designed to allow enough room for freedom of movement whilst retaining close-fitting, trim fit to pair with the dress of the 20s/30s, which would have included higher-waisted pants and tucked-in dress/work shirts.
Next comes the collar. A lapel-style collar was the Cossack OG, but the style developed to a more casual shawl/rounded collar ass the years went on. If you take a look at the images below, the left and center images show the original lapel-style collars, and the right image shows the more shawl-esque, rounded collar which is what became the standard.
Then you have cinches and waist gussets. Cossacks were known for having large gussets and the hip, fitted with cinches to adjust the silhouette. Cinches were also fitted to the cuffs to maximize adjustability in these key areas. Last, but not least – buttons. You can’t have a Cossack jacket without a button placket with a double-button waist. Pocket-wise, there is almost a 50-50 split in Cossack design between dual A-1 style flap pockets that also fasten with buttons, or dual welted slash pockets.
Like this? Read these:
Waist Gusset and Cinch on a Cossack-style jacket, via Avi Leather (left), buttons and flap pockets on a Good Wear Leather Cossack Jacket (right)
Worn by everyone from workers and students to airplane pilots, although possessing a sort of fancy look by today’s standards, that impulse to call it a classic style without knowing why is the effect of generations of genetics built into your brain because this was everyday outerwear. But who was dealing it out?
Who Made The Cossack Jacket?
Albert Einstien’s Original Levi’s ‘Menlo’ Label Cossack Jacket via Levi’s
Well, as it turns it out, it’s hard to say. Just like it’s hard to say who was actually mass-making work shirts or even jeans during the 1920s and 30s. Of course, the presumption is that there were a lot — which there were — but if you’re looking for a definitive tight list you will be partially disappointed. This is mostly because many of the existing examples lost their tags decades ago – or maybe never even had any to begin with. And as for what’s left, I could give you obscure shops and manufacturers like Summer Sportswear of Los Angeles, Block Bilt Sportswear, and H&L Block, or the various “Togs” manufacturers across the country but that doesn’t excite you does it? Although I’ve never seen an example from one of the big manufacturers like Sears, Roebuck & Co, and Montgomery Ward, they for sure made Cossacks, too.
One of the company names that you will recognize which might come as a surprise in this space is Levi Strauss & Co. But more surprising is how people knew this detail. It all goes back to 2016, or maybe the mid-1930s, depending on your perspective. The thing is, a jacket owned and religiously worn by none other than Albert Einstein hit the Christie’s auction block. Not only was the jacket a Cossack, it was made by Levi’s under its long-defunct ‘Menlo’ label. This is how Levi’s justified spending a cool $120,000 to take it back to their home base in San Francisco. Of course, a lot of this value comes from it being freaking Einstein’s but there is also a smidgen of indication of the rarity of the Cossack itself. I’m not sure an Einstein suit jacket is hitting 6 figures. Levi’s went on to make a made a painstakingly accurate reproduction of the Einstein original through its Levis’ Vintage Clothing label.
Einstein rocking his original Cossack. Left image via UrbanDaddy, right image via Jecemei Colorisations
LVC reproduction (left) vs. Einstein’s original Levi’s Menlo Cossack Jacket (right) via Levi’s
How Much Will An Original Run You?
But speaking of value, beside’s finding MR. E = MC^2’s backup, how much do you need to fork over to get one? Well like anything it depends on condition, size, maker, and material. If it’s small, fragile, needs major restoration or is just straight unwearable, you can get a wall hanger or design inspiration piece for a few hundred bucks. For a wearable, leather example in a big size (42-44) you’re looking at upwards of a grand to start, but for brilliant examples you the sky is the limit.
An original 20s or 30s Cossack Jacket picked up on eBay for just under $1600 (in 2010) via Rivet Head
As for where to look, eBay, Etsy, or Instagram are your best bets but if you are really dead set on finding one, just go to Tokyo Japan. Oh, but one quick caveat, they’re impossible to find so it doesn’t really matter. The few examples that do pop up every once in an indigo moon get swiped up in a flash. And once this realization hits you first hand, you’ll happily look to the repro market where you can forge your own Einstein story.
Where Can You Get One Now?
Old Joe Brand – Patina Deerskin Cossack Jacket
Available for $2050 from Hinoya.
Mister Freedom
It should come as no surprise that Christophe Loiron, renowned vintage dealer and owner of Mister Freedom has created as faithful a reproduction of the Cossack jacket possible. Inspired by Cossack jackets he saw in an old yearbook – and with the manufacturing expertise and eye of a seasoned vintage vet, Mister Freedom’s Campus Leather Jackets are top tier. All the components that the style dictates without any unnecessary flourishes or branding. Specific highlights include new-old-stock metal side buckles, cotton corduroy cuff linings, slash pockets with arrow stops, and an unlined, one-piece back construction.
Available for $1050 from Clutch Cafe.
Himel Bros.
The absolute authority on all things classic leather jackets, Himel Bros. draws from their long history in the vintage biz as well as extensive research to recreate the most iconic leather jackets of the past with tastefully updated or dream vintage-inspired customization options. Himel Bros.’ Heron Zip draws direct inspiration from the Cossack as evident by its adjustable waist tabs, wrist cuffs, A-1 pockets, and that perfected, round shawl collar. The addition of a repro grommet Talon hookless zipper, chinstrap, and choice of exciting linings like tiger stripe, duck camo, and Mitchell camo lining makes for a perfect mix of old and new. Honoring the past without reliving it.
Available from Himel Bros. starting at $2650
Bill Kelso
The leather aficionados over at Bill Kelso in the UK are setting a standard for Cossack excellence. Their down-to-the-stitch example looks like it’s straight from a 30s catalog with complete customizability from lining and buttons to hardware. And zooming out to their full collection, even the leather can be customized making for a Cossack to fit your imagination whether you want a perfect repro or to push the boundaries with some personal tweaks. And of course, they used original examples as inspiration to help keep things honest.
Available from Bill Kelso for £905GBP (~$1140USD)
Orgueil
Studio D’Artisan sub-label, Orgueil, is throwing their 20th-century hat into the ring with a tried and true Cossack jacket with all the fixings. Perfectly tailored for a clean look, all its meticulous details come together to create a perfect homage to leather jacket royalty. Finished in a brilliant caramel-y camel color-way, Orgueil has done all the antiquated heavy lifting so all you need to do is put it on and go!
Available from Frans Boone Store for €1,295 (~$1390USD)
